Usoa {Shawl}

Usoa shawl

Who says being spineless is a bad thing? Usoa is an “invertebrate” shawl that couldn’t be simpler to make. Instead of starting at the neck with a few stitches and increasing to a miserable number of stitches, all the stitches are cast on at the neck edge then decreased down to a point. The edging is knitted along at the same time, so there isn’t any fussy picking up and knitting either. (Bonus: this method begins with less stitches than traditional bottom-up shawls that start at the outside edge of the triangle, so it really is faster to make than all the other methods!) A simple silhouette is the best way to showcase a yarn as scrumptious as the Lilura. You will surely be enchanted with this easy and beautiful shawl!

Pattern price is $7 for a PDF download.
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You Will Need:
• 600 yds (548.6 m) Mountain Meadow Wool Lilura
{50% white mountain merino™ wool; 50% light fawn alpaca}
200 yds / 1.48 oz (183 m / 42 g) per skein
• 4.5 mm (US 7) needles—circular needle at least 29” (73.6 cm) long to accomodate stitches comfortably (knitting is worked flat)
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• 2 safety-pin style stitch markers in two colors (having two colors helps distinguish right and wrong sides)

Skill Level: Intermediate; basic stitches, lace, simple shaping
Techniques: knitting, purling, yarn over increases, single decreases, various double decreases (explained in pattern)
Gauge: 17 stitches & 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) square in garter stitch, after blocking
Finished size: 54” (137.1 cm) wide x 27” (68.6 cm) deep, also see schematic on page 5 for more detailed sizing information
Construction: The shawl begins with a large number of stitches and is decreased to a point. The edging is knit at the same time as the body of the shawl. See the construction notes on page 2 for more details.

Note: The pattern is offered in a charted format.

5 Responses to Usoa {Shawl}

  1. Bonnie says:

    I would love to make this but I don’t “do” charts —– yet.

    • bethanyh says:

      Thank you for your interest in my design!For what it’s worth, I know where you’re coming from. I didn’t like knitting from charts until a few years ago. This has heavily influenced how I design my own charts. I shade wrong side rows a pale gray to make them easier to see, keep the grid lines nice and fine (heavy ones make my eyes bug out), and don’t make the symbols too large for their grid boxes (this also makes my eyes bug out).

      If you decide you do want to give Usoa a try, I’d be happy to help if you have any questions. :)

  2. Pat says:

    Hi Bethany, I have a silly question: I noticed row 20 has a decrease on both side in the 4 stitch sections. I am not there yet and am sure it’ll all work out-but I worry about being one stitch short. If you have a minute, could you explain it to me? I t’s a lovely pattern.

    • Bethany says:

      Hi Pat,
      I replied to your ravelry message, but in case it helps anyone who reads this page, I will post that response here:

      I would say that even though it doesn’t make sense, do try to work row 20 to see if you have issues or not; you might find things kind of gel once the previous row of knitting is in place to show you where the stitches lie. There is one tricky-ish part where a central double decrease worked from the wrong side goes between the feather lace and the edging. (You will need to remove the stitch marker to perform this double decrease.) This is because a decrease in the feather lace meets a decrease and yarn over at the edging. I didn’t want too many garter stitches between the edging and the feather lace. If there’d been one extra garter stitch it would simply be two decreases back to back. It seems wonky in the chart, but I think/hope it makes sense when yarn is put to needles. :)

      Let me know if you have any trouble working it, and I will try to help.

  3. Pingback: Lace at Any Weight | Mountain Meadow Wool Mill - All natural and organic yarns from Wyoming

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